Frankish Fashion in the late 66th Century
Many fabrics are used in clothes, from the base hemp, through linen and wool, to the exotic fabrics from the lands of Haramesh silk and cotton. The clothing of the well-to-do is often patterened or embroidered, while the rich favour velvet and thick brocade. The richer the person, the stiffer his or her outerclothes. While poor people usually wear drab clothing coloured brown, white or grey, the rich favour strong colours and gay patterns. Men, paricularily young ones, often wear pied ("mi-parti") clothing, which is to say clothing coloured differently on either side of the body (different hoses, different sleeves, or even a doublet split down the middle), either side may be patterned.
Male Fashion
Trousers are either hose or joined hose (henceforth referred to as tights). Hoses are held up by garterbelts. A loincloth may or may not be worn between them. Hoses may be rolled down to the ankles on hot days. Tights are so tight that a codpiece (braguette) must be worn to provide some relief for the genitalia. These codpieces are often embellished, extravagant things, especially in the ranks of Jupiter worshippers.
The basic upper garment is the chemise, which reaches to midhip and is split at the sides of the hips. Sleeves are usually detachable, and are buttoned or laced on at the shoulders. They are also buttoned or tied tight at the wrists. The neck opens at the front, and is held in place by laces, occasionally buttons. The shirts of the well-to-do are lined with lace, embroidery or brocade at the neckline and cuffs.
The main overgarment is the doublet, which is a sort of jacket, reaching to mid-hip. It is buttoned in front, and usually left open, at least at the the neck to show the shirt. A fine doublet is padded, especially at the shoulers, to give the impression of a wide and powerful torso. The sleeves are often much wider than those of the shirt, and billows in intricate folds. Sometimes the heavier doublet is left hanging at the shoulders, like a cape, and the wearer reaches out through the open front instead,,
The robe, which is an over-garment similar to the doublet but which reaches to the ankles, is usually only worn by those of middle age and older, as well as those who tend to affect venerability (academics, sorcerers; augurs). Around the home, however, the rich sometimes wear lounging robes, which are light, loose-hanging garments.
Hats are worn by all, indoors and outdoors. The favoured designs are fairly flat and have no brim. The beret is very popular, as is the turban. Another variety, considered slightly staid, is a flat, cylindrical cap. Hats are often decorated with feathers, brooches and/or ribbons. Sorcerers and people of the Confederation favour taller hats.
Shoes are slipperlike, with pointed toes, their soles are thin and they are quickly worn out. Fine shoes tend to flare at the ankle. Boots are worn for riding or overland travel, but only warriors and knights wear boots indoors. Warriors favour riding boots of thick leather, which reach all the way to the groin, and which are rolled down for normal use.
Garments worn mainly out of doors include cloaks (knee-length or longer), and coats (much like robes), with or without sleeves. Coats often have slits down the sides to make it easy to reach for pouches and weapons carried underneath.
Men of rank tend to wear their hair long, reaching to the shoulder at least. Hair is usually worn loose, or gathered in a very loose bundle at the nape of the neck. Warriors often have pony-tails, while sailors are recognizable by their queues, which are sometimes tarred. Priests of Jupiter shave their foreheads. Beards are the mark of the elderly (and of men of learning). Priests both of Jupiter and of Terminus tend to favour full beards.
Men tend to wear as much jewelry as they can afford. Popular pieces are brooches, rings, necklaces, pendants, torques and bracelets. Girdles, wide belts covered with precious metal are very popular among those who can afford them. "Only women and goblins wear earrings" or for that matter any kind of jewelry which pierces the flesh.
Men always carry a knife, for eating, work and self-defence. A gentleman (Status 1+) that he is entitled to carry a sword at all times, and he is not fully dressed without one.
Female Fashion
Women invariably wear dresses.
The basic female garment is an knee-length chemise, long-sleeved and with a square-cut neckline. It is invariably of white linen. Many women wear tightly laced (at the front or back) vests over the skirt, which pushes up the bust and narrows the waist.
Single piece dresses and skirts with blouses are about equally popular. As with male garments, the sleeves are usually detachable and the garments are cut so as to reveal the garments underneath. The necklines are square and generally fairly low, but this is the only part of the body where flesh may be revealed. A modest woman must be careful to keep her ankles and wrists covered up at all times. The waist is very high. Skirts and dresses are hang in meticulous folds and have a generally conical shape starting at the armpits. and reaching to the ground. To have a long enough dress to trail behind the wearer is considered increasingly old-fashioned.
Womens shoes tend to be smaller and more modest than those of men, and the pointed toe is not as pronounced. They are rarely visible, due to the long skirts.
All women wear their hair long. Young women wear their hair uncovered, decorated with jewellry, strings of pearls and hair nets. The hair may be hanging down or piled up on the head. Older women and married women tend to cover their hair with shawls All gentlewomen cover their hair when travelling. It is increasingly popular for women to wear masks while travelling, to protect their delicate complexion from the elements, and some have even taken up wearing masks on public occations.
Women tend to wear as much jewelry as they can afford. In addition to the pieces favoured by men, they wear hairpins, hairnets, earrings and anklerings.
Women usually carry a small knife for eating and other practical purposes.
Lower Class Male Clothing
Peasants wear tights with a codpiece, or straight, loose trousers falling to mid-calf. They wear shirts and loose jerkins, both of which hang to mid-thigh. For a belt, they usually use a bit of cord. The most common piece of headwear is a hood. Peasants may wear shoes, but usually wear wooden clogs.
Lower Class Female Clothing
Lower class females wear clothing much like their upper-class counterparts, but much plainer.
